MIURA JACKET

The Miura Jacket stands in the tradition of 1950s Sukajan jackets, blending archival references with a refined contemporary silhouette. Entirely crafted in Kiryu, within the workshop of the last specialized artisan in the world, each piece embodies a rare and precious heritage.

One side highlights a motif inspired by Nishijin, where traditional Asian elements subtly merge with Parisian landmarks, creating a singular dialogue between East and West. The reverse reveals authentic Yokoburi embroidery, executed on a traditional period machine — today unique in the world.

The motifs are drawn from original 1950s templates, carefully preserved and rediscovered in an old Kiryu workshop. With exclusive access to these archives, EASTWOOD STUDIO presents a piece of unparalleled historical depth, where artisanal mastery and textile memory converge.

Context

Souvenir jackets originated in post-war Japan. They were commissioned or purchased by American soldiers stationed there, often from PX (Post Exchange) shops within U.S. military bases, as keepsakes of their overseas deployment.

Locally produced in Japan, these jackets combined American-inspired cuts (such as bomber or varsity styles) with Japanese artisanal embroidery, often depicting dragons, tigers, maps, or Asian landscapes. These embroideries were created using the Yokoburi technique.

Each piece became a personal textile souvenir, bridging military culture, local craftsmanship, and identity expression. They carry a unique memory, suspended between East and West.

Shishū-gata / Patterns of Embroideries

Unless custom-made, embroidery relied on specific templates. These were crafted from a special paper impregnated with kakishibu — a waterproofing and hardening liquid extracted from persimmons — and then cut according to a hand-drawn design. Once completed, the template was placed over pre-cut fabric pieces and brushed with a mixture of zinc powder and glue. This process transferred a white outline onto the fabric, serving as a guide for the artisans who then embroidered the design using a specialized sewing machine.

Even when using the same template, each embroidery was unique: the artisan’s skill and sensitivity influenced the final rendering. No two lines were ever perfectly identical.

Today, only a few of these precious embroidery templates are carefully preserved. Though generally kept away from public view, EASTWOOD STUDIO has been granted the exclusive privilege of using original matrices for this collection.